Accurately timed Self Bondage.

(This is strictly a fantasy scenario and should not be used in real life. Use any information on this page STRICTLY AT YOUR OWN RISK).

The problem with the ice release and other semi accurate means of Self Bondage is that they're not accurate enough in some circumstances - we all have real lives and sometimes it would be nice to indulge when you have for example an hour to spare and no more, for this I find that relying on a melting ice cube or three doesn't quite make the grade.

There is, of course, at night or in a darkened room, the method of lights on timers so you can eventually see a combination lock and free yourself that way, but that means you must have enough movement to see the lock and actually turn it, plus such luxuries as blindfolds are unavailable.

The solution I'm planning will allow you to be completely bound and blindfolded, plus depending on the way you've chosen to be bound, completely immobile for a preset time, from one minute to twenty four hours (Not that I'd recommend anything over a few hours!). Further this solution is a keyless one, the idea is that you gain enough movement to unlock the rest of your bonds after the release is triggered.

I can say this enough - as with any Self Bondage situation - BACKUP BACKUP BACKUP... Always have and use backups, combination locks / keys in ice etc... ALSO TEST TEST TEST... Testing your escape is the singular most important thing you can do, put the equipment on for a dry run first... OK this takes time, but it's your LIFE we're talking about here should things go especially wrong!

This solution does however require some exotic equipment, some money - about a hundred pounds (If you're in the UK), and a small amount of DIY.

The equipment I list below...

• 1 24 hour mechanical timer with increments of 15 minutes or less.
• 1 Electronic Timer with increments of 1 minute.
• 1 Single Plug Mains Extension cable - the length of this is up to you.
• 1 Magnetic door closer / lock with a holding force of at least 600 lbs.
• 1 Mains Regulated 12v DC power supply at 500MA (Half an amp)
• 2 Blocks of wood just a bit larger than the door closer / metal plate.
• Fixtures to fix the contraption to something solid (Think wall / bed head etc).
• 10 meters (Or more) of 2 core cable rated to at least an amp.
• 2 or more screw in closed Eye Hooks or D-Links
• 1 pack of cable ties.
• Sand paper to smooth off the blocks of wood,
• Several self tapping wood screws, about an inch long with sunken heads.
• Tools to fix this all together, electric drill, screwdrivers, small knife, pliers, insulating tape.

In the UK you can find the specialist equipment from the following suppliers online:

Electro-Magnetic Lock: DNPCardPrinter.com.
Regulated Power Supply and 1 amp cable: RemTrak.com.
Electronic and Mechanical Timers: Electronic from Argos.co.uk and Mechanical from Argos.co.uk.

If anyone has links for equipment suppliers for the US / Other countries, please use the contact form and e-mail the admin!

The other equipment you should be able to pick up at any main line hardware store.

If the hardware store doesn't sell Chains / D-Rings / Eye Hooks etc, you can obtain them from Dark Sensations (Look under Bondage Accessories)


Putting it together:

• First check the mains extension cable by plugging in a lamp or something, if things don't work first time, you'll know it's not the cable.

• By the same rules - test both the mechanical and electronic timers.

• Sand any sharp edges off both blocks of wood.

• Wire up one end of the small cable to the connectors on the Electro-Magnetic door lock, cable tie this off, so it is secure. Make sure any wires are insulated.

• Note: When screwing into real wood it is advisable to drill a small guide hole in advance to avoid splitting the wood, it should be almost as deep as the screw will eventually go, and about a half the width of the screw thread.

• Screw the electro magnet part of the door closer to one of the blocks of wood, make sure you leave enough space around the outside so that your eventual fixings to wall / bed / fixed mount point will be accommodated easily.

• Screw the metal plate to the other block of wood.

• Screw the Eye Hooks or D-Rings to the other side of the block of wood with the metal plate on. If there are any sharp edges you can place tape over them.

• Trim the thin cable to a suitable length, remember you want the timers and other mains driven electrical equipment a fair way from where you'll be bound - electrical shocks and fires are not kinky!

• Wire the free end into the regulated 12v 500Ma DC adapter, you may have to splice the cables, always do this with the power off and make sure everything is well insulated when you turn the power back on!

Now comes the fun part - testing the equipment as a whole!

• Fix the Electro-Magnetic lock board to something solid (Think bed head here)

• Prop the Locking Plate against he Electro-Magnetic Lock.

• Plug in the Mechanical timer to the mains extension cable.

• Plug in the Electronic timer to the Mechanical Timer (The mechanical one is backup in case the Electronic one should fail to turn off the power on time!)

• Plug in the 12v 500Ma DC adaptor in to the Electronic Timer.

• (Everything is wired together at this point and ready to go live.)

• Apply power to the mains cable.

• Turn both timer switches to manual on.

• At this point the lock should be fully engaged, the removal of the lock plate from the Electro-Magnetic lock should be next to impossible, go on, give it a tug and see!

• Leave this on for at least an hour to test it and make sure nothing is going to over heat.

• Once the testing is complete, disengage the timers, at which point the locking plate should fall to the floor.

• NOTE: Due to the individual designs of the Electro-Magnetic door locks there may be a SMALL amount of residual magnetism which may hold the locking plate on with a very weak force for a short amount of time, remember you should be able to pull this off very easily once the current is cut. If not - go buy a new locking mechanism which has an increased level of magnetic protection.

• Once the first operational test has completed you can start testing the entire apparatus with the timers doing the on and off work.

• NOTE: As the system we're using here doesn't have a battery backup for the locking mechanism, the lock will automatically release in the event of a power failure!

• NOTE: When using this equipment, make sure all cables are tidy and out of the way, it would be embarrassing should you trip over one of the cables whilst hobbling to your final lock, knocking yourself out...

Now you're ready to roll, simply set both timers (The mechanical one for a slightly longer time than the electronic one), turn on and go get all locked up! Use your imagination about what to fix the locking mechanism to - walls - bed heads - floor boards etc... You can then attach anything you like - chains - rope - cuffs etc to the locking plate and have fun. The methods you can use to fix the locking mechanism to a surface can be as simple as Velcro strapping or standard screws. Remember if you screwing it to something, the screws will need guide holes drilled so the wood won't split, and whatever you're screwing into will have a few holes in if the attachment isn't permanent


Further Safety Notes:

The Regulated 12v 500Ma DC adapter should have protection built into it, so in the event where there is an electrical short the power should be automatically cut off. The current supplied to the locking mechanism is very low (Half an amp at a low voltage too), and if you do end up getting a shock off the equipment (YOU SHOULDN'T!), it is unlikely to kill you due to the low amount of power which is supplied to the end of line unit.

Always remember to keep the mains equipment (Timers / extension lead etc...) away from any source of moisture! (Ice Is frozen WATER!)

Finally - Again - Don't forget your backups - both supply and testing of such, they may save you should something unforeseen happen!

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CategoryTechniques